The first link came into being when the Place Ville-Marie, a Bauhaus skyscraper in downtown Montreal, incorporated an underground shopping mall. Built in 1962 to cover railway tracks near Central Station, it linked the train to the Queen Elizabeth Hotel. With the opening of the Montreal Metro (the city's subway system) in 1966, the web of passages began to blossom.

Today, with over 30 kilometers (18 miles) of tunnels, the world's largest underground network provides shopping for half a million visitors every day. There are over 1,600 boutiques and an equal number of apartments.

Entertainment is provided by the 34 cinemas dotting the 'landscape'. Meals are available at any of 200 different restaurants. One could live and shop in Montreal and never go outdoors. And with 120 access points to the surface, it isn't difficult to find.

The section downtown, part of a complex called RÉSO (after the French, réseau or network) provides a nexus for anyone who wanted to catch the train to other parts. Spread over 60 residential and commercial venues, the buildings above ground contain 80% of all the office space in the city.

Shopping centers near the Peel and McGill metro stations will be of more interest to tourists, however. Wedged between Mont Royal in the north and the St. Lawrence river in the south, shoppers can find items from Hudson Bay Company or Simon's. The clothing ranges from silly frocks to safari gear and everything in between.

Try a Quebec specialty - french fries, brown gravy and cheese curd. Then dash off for some more shopping at Promenades Cathedrale. Beneath the tallest building in Montreal at 1000 de La Gauchetière you can take a few turns at the indoor skating rink, open year round.

Window shop in the natural light provided by the hundreds of skylights that line the ceiling of the underground complex. At the same time the atriums give pedestrians a feeling of space that eliminates any gloom from being underground.

The weather in Montreal can be scorching hot in the summer, snowy cold in the winter. But in the Underground City, visitors can shop in comfort as they wend their way among the hundreds of different possibilities.

Several of Montreal's major shopping plazas are easy to reach via Underground City. Visit the Complexe Les Ailes, the Centre Eaton, Les Cours Mont-Royal or Place Montréal.

Then, just when you really feel the need to go above ground again, go way above. Visit the bar at Altitude 737, named for its elevation above street level and take in the panoramic view of Montreal.

The Tropical Forest

In the tropical forest section visitors can walk through a replica of a South American rainforest. Here one can find hundreds of plant species as they exist in those dense jungles. Macaws and marmosets play among the trees, as you sweat out the high humidity. Tamarins laugh at you while you feel as if you're in the real thing.

The Laurentian Forest

A replica of a North American wilderness, this section holds dozens of trees, brush and other flora from the area. Here you can see how the changes in Fall affect the more than 200 species of animals amid 4,000 trees and plants. Come see the changing colors in Autumn, then visit in the Spring to observe all the new growth and activity.

The Saint Lawrence Marine Ecosystem

Modeled on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, walking through this area provides an encapsulated view of the terrain of which Montreal itself is a part. The cool breeze is just what you would expect when looking out over the river, and the plants are all authentic and appropriate.

Polar Areas

Representing both the north Arctic and the south Antarctic areas, the Polar ecosystem shows lifelike displays of the conditions at those extreme points of the planet. Polar World contains puffins and penguins gathered from zoos all over the world.

All the sections are maintained at the proper temperature and humidity to suit the individual ecosystem they model. Since the exhibits feature living species, they are ever-changing. Come back two years later and you'll see quite a different view.

In every case, the tours are self-guided but there are lots of sources of information to add to the visitor's enjoyment. An inexpensive audio guide is available that will fill you in on all the nooks and crannies that form each of the unique systems. Discussions of flora and fauna (plants and animals) really bring the place to life.

There are knowledgeable staff throughout the facility who can answer any questions the sights or guide might bring to mind. At the Info-Ecosphere desk, friendly staff are pleased to hand out literature, provide information about the ecosystems within and chat about what you've seen. Staff are easily recognizable by the pith helmets they wear.

Supplies and gifts are available at the shop. After the visit, enjoy the restaurant or cafeteria while the kids play in the Naturalia game room.

A work of devotion by Brother Andre, a lay brother in the Holy Cross order, the present church wasn't even completed until 30 years after his death. The church was begun in 1924, but only finished in 1967. It began first as a small structure he helped create near the beginning of the 20th century. Starting as a tiny wooden chapel, funds were eventually furnished to build the basilica.

Brother Andre's unusual character is the reason.

Pilgrims from far and wide would come to his chapel because of a myth that claimed he could heal the crippled. Many would (and sometimes still do) climb the 300 stone steps on their knees to make their way up to be healed. Part of the present church contains hundreds of crutches from those who allegedly found a cure there. But what is unquestionably real is the impressive structure that houses them.

The copper dome forming the room is almost 100 meters high, the second largest in the world after St. Peter's in Rome. Set atop an otherwise plain and simple looking building, it can be seen from a great distance. From it one can also see a great distance, as visitors on Mont Royal will have a spectacular view of Montreal below.

The interior is large enough to accommodate 10,000 worshipers, more than twice as many as the Basilica de Notre-Dame elsewhere in the city. Though not so ornate inside (or outside) as that Gothic Revival rival, St. Joseph's has many features that can be found nowhere else.

One of the oddest is the preserved heart of Brother Andre, stored in a case upstairs inside the church. More than 2 million visitors per year gaze upon it. Nearby are many plain, but elegant wooden statues of the apostles, and above is an impressive set of stained glass windows. A white marble statue of St. Joseph is in the main altar.

On special occasions the church's great organ and 52 bell chimes will sound out, as thousands of votive candles light the interior. A fitting display for one of the world's most interesting shrines.

St. Joseph's is located at 3800 Queen Mary Road. Just take the train to Côte-des-Neiges and walk, don't crawl, up the hill.

Many of the sights and things to do don't depend on proximity to water. But for some reason, whether it's the invigorating, cool breeze or just the  'coastal attitude', the Old Port is like its cousins: buzzing.

Also like many docks in old cities, Old Port was once just a run-down wharf. Since 1611, it had been used as a trading post for French fur trappers and Scottish merchants. The area is sited at the edge of Old Montreal, the section that formed the original city founded in 1642.

But in 1992 the 2km (1.2mi), 53 hectare (130 acres) area along the St. Lawrence River was renovated. The result was to become one of Montreal's major attractions for tourists and locals alike.

There are dozens of reasons for that popularity.

Since the Old Port is just that, there are (not surprisingly, but delightfully) cruises galore. Bateau-Mouche (www.bateaumouche.ca) offers an evening dinner cruise or an all day trip. Le Petit Navier (www.lepetitnavire.ca) takes you on the first electrically propelled commercial boat in Canada for an historical tour on the water. Or, you can board one of the jet boats of Jet Boating Montreal (www.jetboatingmontreal.com) and brave the white water of Lachine Rapids.

Anyone who has been to Las Vegas (or seen one of the TV specials) will be familiar with Cirque du Soleil. This dazzling combination of circus and theater has a touring show it brings to Montreal. Like nothing you've ever seen, it has to be experienced. Montrealers are long familiar with the troupe, since the city is its original home.

There are many activities that are free or nominally priced, too.

When the weather is warm, as it often is in Montreal in the spring and summer seasons, you'll see skateboarders, cyclists and pedestrians aplenty. But if the crowds get to be too much, just hop aboard the Ferry to the park on Île Ste-Hélène. Or, anytime of the year, enjoy the iSci, Montreal's science center at King Edward Pier.

For a grand view, climb the 192 steps to the top of The Clock Tower (La Tour de l'Horloge) and take in the waterfront and surrounding islands. Montreal is itself one of the larger islands. Built in 1922 in memory of the merchant mariners killed during WWI, it offers a lovely view.

Take a horse carriage ride and listen to the driver tell you all about some of the 300-plus year-old houses that dot the area. Many of them are still in use!

Over seven million visitors per year visit Old Port and with all this (and much more) to do it isn't hard to see why.

Wander over to busy St. Paul Street and shop. Bakeries, souvenirs and a variety of art objects are all for sale. Consider staying at one of the lovely Bed and Breakfast establishments in the area. From there you can easily make your way over to the Bonsecour Market in the morning.

Visiting Place Royal, a former market on the spot that Montreal was founded in 1642, there is a sense of the old European traditions. But there are up-to-the-minute shops and restaurants as well.

You can visit the popular IMAX theater and see a show in French or English, as you prefer. Walk down to the I-Sci science center and take in some of the exhibits, if you're interested in the most modern sights. Check out the Habitat, an avant-garde housing complex built for the 1967 World's Fair.

Now that you've sampled some of Old Montreal's modern sights, let's get back to the traditional.

Want a candlelight dinner while you enjoy the breeze off the nearby St. Lawrence river? No problem. Prefer a dash of lunch at a sidewalk cafe while the mimes entertain you? Equally easy. Enjoy a glass of wine while the jugglers toss flaming torches in the air and catch them with ease.

Stroll over to one of the many sights within Old Montreal, such as the Musée d'Archéologie et d'Histoire (Museum of Archeology and History) at 350 rue Royal. You'll come away with a rich knowledge of the city's history. Ancient graves, pieces of Montreal's original fortification wall and much more are housed here.

Or, go visit the Notre-Dame Basilica and be awe-struck by the Gothic Revival facade outside or the astounding carvings and sculpture inside. The 7,000 pipe organ will uplift you, while you explore the altar at the top of the spiral staircase, intricately carved with prophets of the Old Testament.

As the light filters in through the stained-glass windows, you can explore the high balcony and get a look at the huge, gilt-topped columns and life-sized sculptures on the crucifix.

Take a tour of the Chapelle de Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours, built as a shrine to the city's sailors. Many a widow has come here to pray for her loved one lost at sea.

Stroll around and visit some of the over 300-year-old houses that still exist here. Down by the river edging the city you'll see many of them that look out on the port, once one of North America's most active.

At The Clock Tower catch a tour boat to explore the port from the seaward side. Don't miss seeing the old City Hall at 275 Notre Dame Street East or the Old Customs House at 400 Place d'Youville.

Located between the downtown business district and the waterfront, Vieux Montréal is easy to find. Just take the Metro (Montreal's subway) and exit at Place d'Armes or Champ de Mars.

The exterior facade is Gothic Revival and even though it was done in the early 19th century, it bears all the marks of a structure done hundreds of years earlier. With its asymmetric towers and curved arch entrance, the building invites you in to its magnificent interior.

Large enough to hold 4,000, the Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal was the largest religious structure in North America until surpassed by St. Patric's Cathedral in New York decades later. Yet it took only five years to complete. Given the richly carved and decorated interior it would be more believable to suppose it took generations, as was the case in the Middle Ages. Indeed, many of the present features did. The current design is largely the vision of architect Victor Bourgeau who led the project between 1874 and 1880.

The high vaulted ceiling is festooned with hand-painted gilded stars on a background of deep sky blue. In this cathedral the stars shine in the daytime as the light filters in from the stained glass windows in the sanctuary to illuminate them. Alongside the windows are a series of awe-inspiring wooden columns, carved by hand and capped with gilt tops. The columns support an equally impressive pair of balconies that span the full length of the sanctuary.

Even more astounding is the massive altar, carved from linden wood and centered around a crucifix with near life-sized sculptures of several Biblical characters. Moses, Abraham, Peter, Paul and more are surrounded by angels. Lit from behind, the figures glow in silhouette. In addition there are 32 panels representing birth, life and death, cast in bronze by artist Charles Daudelin.

Moving half the distance to the narthex is a circular pulpit atop a stage. Access is by a spiral staircase that is itself a work of art. At its base there are several carvings of prophets and other figures. From this vantage point, facing the narthex is the Basilica's massive organ. A true organ player's dream, the instrument was completed in 1891 and has over 7,000 pipes and 97 stops.

But that's not the only heavenly music here. Don't leave without seeing (and maybe hearing) the 10-bell carillon in the east tower and the massive bell in the west tower. Nicknamed Le Gros Bourdon, the latter weighs more than 12 tons. The sound produces vibrations that will rattle your feet and engulf your ears.

Worshipers may enter free. The standard donation for visitors is a few dollars, with those between 7-17 admitted for half-price. Children 6 and under enter for free.

Located in Vieux Montréal (Old Montreal), at 110 Notre Dame Street West it's easy to reach via the Metro (Montreal's subway). Just exit at Place d'Armes.

The older, neo-Classical building, the Michal and Renata Hornstein Pavilion, is on the north side of Sherbrooke. The newer building, the Jean-Noel Desmarais Pavilion, was finished in 1991. Each is worthy of a day-long visit. Here, art lovers will find 19th century Canadian paintings and drawings, along with art from all over Europe, Asia and Africa.

The collection's offerings are not exhausted by traditional paintings and drawings. There are decorative objects, items of Mediterranean archeology and native crafts from the North American continent.

In the Mediterranean section there are marble funerary lekythos, a Hellenistic-Roman torso and a new Apollo sculpture forming the centerpiece of the collection. Next door are the Near/Middle Eastern and Egyptian collections. Luristan bronzes, used to adorn horses in the 6th-4th centuries BC, sit not far from ancient wooden objects from Egypt.

Since 2001, a part of the museum collection has been objects from the renowned Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Everything from a Hoffman chair to a Japanese incense box of exquisite delicacy can be seen here. It also holds prototypes of bentwood furniture designed by architect Frank Gehry.

In addition, the museum houses art from around Quebec, the eastern Canadian province in which Montreal is situated. There are also artifacts from the natives in the far north and west.

The European masters collection is the equal of many larger, more well-known museums. Here there are grisaille paintings by Mantegna. Baroque art from the French, Italian and Flemish count works by Poussin, de Witte and Bruegel the Younger. 18th century works include portraits by Hogarth and street scenes by Canaletto. Religious paintings by Tiepolo sit not far from a fine Gainsborough.

Later artists are represented as well. The Musée des Beaux-Arts holds many 19th century products of the Barbizon school, including Corot and Daumier. A Tissot is just down the walk from art by Renoir and Pissaro, Monet and Cézanne. The 20th century is also well represented with works by Picasso, Matisse, Miro and Dali.

With around 25,000 objects, it is far from the largest museum of the type, but some of the items are unlike anything you'll see anywhere else. Located at 1379 Sherbrooke Street West, the museum is easy to reach via the Metro (Montreal's subway). For details, see: http://www.mbam.qc.ca

Housed partly in the triangular Eperon Building, the Pointe-à-Callière museum, as it's called locally, is so named for the point where the St. Pierre River merges with the St. Lawrence. For on this spot were found a treasure trove of archeological finds. Here scientists unearthed artifacts of French trappers, local native tribesmen and others who have passed through the area over the centuries.

You can visit any of the four sections into which the museum is divided. The Eperon Building itself is the main section, but there is the underground Archaeological Crypt, the Ancienne Douane Building and the outdoor Place Royale.

First, catch the 15-minute video in the auditorium that explains all about the museum and its contents. Providing an excellent overview of the territory from the Ice Age to the present, it's a fascinating history. Next, descend to below street level to see the collection.

Visitors walk on a self-guided tour through a labyrinth of cases containing items left by Scottish merchants, Iroquois and others. Part of the tour shows the city's first Catholic cemetery with several of the original tombstones still on display.

Centuries old pottery, some surprisingly well preserved, sits alongside strikingly detailed and realistic carved masks. In some cases, objects are placed in the exact location at which they were first discovered.

Along with the artifacts there's a permanent exhibit showcasing the history of Montreal, one of the oldest cities in North America. At the end, you exit into the Old Custom House, another popular Montreal attraction. Built in 1838, it provides an interesting look into the British influence in this largely French-origin city.

Inside the main building there is also the L'Arrivage cafe with an excellent view of Old Montreal (Vieux Montréal). Across from the main building is the Youville Pumping Station, dating from 1915 but long defunct. Fully restored, it serves as an interpretation center. Staff along the tour are happy to answer questions.

Located at 350 Place Royal, just exit the Metro (Montreal's subway) at Place d'Armes. Details are available at the website: http://www.pacmusee.qc.ca/

There are nine public greenhouses and over 20 others that house research and maintenance plants from the world over. There are here some of the rarest medicinal herbs in the world, lovingly cared for by the Jardin's gardeners. Associated with The Botanical Institute of the University of Montreal, it has the expertise and interest that has helped create one of the world's finest botanical treasures.

Those specimens sit contentedly in a rock garden, a Chinese garden, a Japanese garden and many other attractions. There is a collection of alpine plants, orchids and a large variety of other flowers. Few botanical gardens can boast such a wide assortment of species from so many climate zones.

The Chinese Garden is one of the site's proudest displays. It is reported to be the largest outside of Asia and holds hundreds of native species of that continent, such as the well-known penjing. Its winding paths and artificial mountain are the epitome of the Chinese style.

Nearby is the Japanese Garden with its renowned bonsai collection. Here you can see miniaturized, but not dwarf, species of all kinds. Bonsai are not genetically modified, but trimmed, pruned and groomed to retain their small size. Miniature plum, pine and windswept species of many types are here. Visit the tearoom when you've finished and enjoy a Japanese Tea Ceremony.

The Jardin also has an area that holds plants of a kind that might be found in the Sonoran desert. Cacti and succulents even bloom here, despite the variable cold and hot weather for which Quebec is famous.

At the west end of the city, the Jardin offers a relaxing arboretum, featuring willows and chestnuts, along with dozens of other tree species. Not far away is the famed Medicinal Plant Garden where species that have supplied cures since the Middle Ages can be seen.

Emulating a garden that might easily have been found in a monastery, you can hear about the most modern science used to care for them. Ask one of the friendly tour guides all about which of the herbs can help.

Along with the delightful plants there are waterfalls that mist the air, which will be appreciated on one of those typical hot Montreal summer days. One of the best times to visit is mid-August when many of the plants are at their most active. Visitors can sit and enjoy the smell of the orchids while they relax before continuing.

Located at 4101 Sherbrooke Street East, the Jardin Botanique is easy to reach via the Metro (Montreal's subway). Just exit at the Pie-IX station.

Comprising over a hundred hectares, and reaching to 234m (725ft), Mont Royal (from which the city's name derives), offers a variety of things to see and do. Just sitting in the cafeteria inside the Chateau is alone worth the trip. From here, the buildings of Montreal are easily visible against the bold blue sky present in winter and summer. The western lookout, built in 1906 and named Belvédère Kondiaronk for a local Huron chief, offers equally spectacular vistas.

Inaugurated in 1876, the park encloses woodlands, man-made lakes, a ski slope, a sculpture garden and much more. Locals and visitors alike can enjoy sports on the tennis and basketball courts, let their kids play in the pool or just relax and enjoy the view. There are numerous bicycle trails along gravel paths and, in winter, cross-country skiing is popular.

In summer, a popular activity known locally as Tam-Tams is held. Montrealers play drums (which give their name to the event) near the monument to Sir George-Étienne Cartier. Visitors come to hear the music and watch the locals perform a communal dance.

Not far from St. Joseph's Oratory, the large copper-domed basilica on the mountain, there are other religious motifs as well. A large cross illuminates in purple during the time a Pope dies and another is elected. There are two cemeteries in the area - Notre-Dame-des-Neiges Cemetery (Catholic), Mount Royal Cemetery (non-denominational). Both are a pleasant place to walk and contemplate.

For a more avant-garde activity, visitors can enjoy the Beaver Lake pavilion. Retro-futurist in design, it offers a snack bar and, in the winter, skating is nearby. There are numerous sculptures, retained from a large show held in 1964, that dot the slope above.

The mountain is also home to the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Company) transmission facility. There are two large buildings and a 100m (310 ft) candelabra tower, which generates nearly all of Montreal's TV and FM radio broadcasts. For those interested in stellar engineering, it's an awesome sight.

An alternative peak is the site for the University of Montreal, which is also worth a visit. For those who enjoy academic architecture, the tower is a location of note.

Access to the mountain is simple. Any hill with a base near downtown will lead up to the top. Those preferring to ride rather than walk can take a bus or take the Metro (Montreal's subway). Cars are permitted, as well. Just drive up Côte-des-Neiges.